Do you consider yourself a DT pro or close to it?
OR Do you know anyone who is?
Then I want to hear from you
You are probably wondering what this is all about, as you all can see our community's DT guide is way too OUTDATED (It almost makes me cry looking at it).
So if anyone is interested, I want us to work as a community in creating a new and updated guide. Let us help our beginners find the ropes.
Spread the word. Depending on how well this project goes, I will be willing to give a little something for the participants' trouble.
Hoping to get this project started and done sooner rather than later.
I'm not a pro but i love playing in DT. Here are some of what i learned by playing in DT
- if you can make decks with the lowest possible star count in its level( 16 Star ; 24 Star ; 33 Star ; ) or you can also use cards with low star count like 3 or 2 stars.
- 9 card decks is also an option, for example you have a 22 star deck add one more card and you'll be in the next level. You'll face cards with higher stars and you'll get more points for every star count handicap.
- Remember the saying "Slowly but Surely" it's alright if the battle reached the fourth round as long as you win many rounds cause the more rounds you win the more points you'll get and that will help you make your ranking higher.
- Don't quit unless you dont want to participate anymore. if you quit you'll lose lots of points and therefore your ranking will decrease.
- Have a decent deck and use it wisely. All clans can be used in DT but use the one which suites your playstyle.
- Always play in DT cause experience is really important in playing the game.
I not pro either but:
- Play fast. Don´t use animations, leader descriptions - untick that.... Playing fast is one of the most importants things besides winning
- Try to win in first 3 rounds, even 2. 2HKO is best option.
- If you are going to lose, lose as fast as you can to start new match.
- Don´t overpill first round, because it gives your opp. big advantage in beginning of the game.
- Do not use elo banned cards... cards that give - points in DT. -5 points may not seem very much but in 10 games that is 50 points. If you won all 10 games then you get around 350 points and 50 is more than 10% of your accumulated points.
- Balanced decks are very important. Don´t use like 4x 2*.
- Try to KO your opponent with more than 12 lives or at least 1 pill remaining. KO gives you 2 points, more than 12hp gives you 2 points and at least 1 pill gives you also 2 points.
- Playing with low star count decks is a viable choice too. Having less stars in deck than opponent gives you 2 bonuses. Starting the game as second player and one point per 1 star less (max. 5 points). While playing with ~18* decks most of the games wont end with KO, so winning more games = winning with more points. Try to win 3/4 round with pillz left and you will win with around 37 points.
- Att. manipulator or manipulators of any kind are very usable in DT. A lot of times your opp. will play 1-2 pillz and with lets say uppers bonus and one pill you can easily deal ~5 dmg and finish game in 2 rounds.
I recently wrote a DT guide for my guild. I could contribute, like i said before. I have the guild's copy read to go.
When playing the DT there are many things to consider.
1- When you play the DT.
This is an extremely important thing to consider as it will let you play in different tiers and in standard. If you play in a high traffic time, meaning when a lot of European players are online in the afternoon/early evening, Asian, African and Australian players have their late evening/night and players in the Americas are at morning till early afternoon. (2-4 PM in GMT -5) then there will be 4k or more players in the DT. This means that most if not all the tiers (23* 31* 32+*) will be open and you will not have any time wasted looking for opponents to play. So obviously in lower traffic times, you will have trouble finding opponents due to the fact of there being less.
Another important thing to consider about when you play the DT is the skill of the players. This falls under when you play it because very often in high traffic DTs you will have to get more points to get 1st or top 25. This is because more players means that there is a higher amount of players who are good at DTs will be playing.
Example: I get 544 points to achieve 15th place. (GMT -5 @ 6 PM) Two DTs earlier, so at 10 AM and 12PM (GMT -5) 544 points would get me 30th place. As you can see it makes a difference when you decide to play. If you want to win more clintz, however, you do need to play when there is a lot of players in the DT.
2- The tier you are in and how many stars in your deck.
The tiers you can play in affect what cards you will see when you play. They will also affect the type of deck you should use and what you want to win with. I'll break it down for each tier.
23* and under: This tier you will very likely face 1 or 2 max ridiculously overpowered cards like Jackie Cr or Dorian. You will rarely have to face more than 2 5* cards in the same hand. This may seem nice but you absolutely cannot go for the 2 hit KO technique here. Doing this will not get you as many points as needed to win. It is essential to try and win 3 or 4 of the rounds with getting a KO or having extra life. In doing so you can achieve constant, although difficult, 35+ points per game. You can use all 23* but you will limit the amount of points you get. I recommend using a deck with 17-21* as you will have enough cards to properly help you.
24-31*: This star count is vastly more popular than the others because here you will find decks built for the KO in 2 or 3 rounds using cards like Nellie Mona and can be very challenging if you don't have a very powerful deck. The key strategy here is to build a deck that can either 2 hit KO or 3 hit KO in 25-27* nothing higher. This is typically where the people who win play.
32+*: This is like DM. Not much can be said here except you will be facing hands with 4* or 5* the vast majority of the time. I do not recommend playing here as it becomes too much of a guessing game of when your opponent will pill or bluff and doesn't leave you with much skill to win the DT. This also doesn't provide as many points as the other tiers. However if you do plan on playing here, I recommend using this strategy (works in DM as well). Play 6 pills (including free pills) the first round. If you win, and have 100% win go for the KO. If not bluff once or twice then go for the KO. This usually works unless the opponent bluffs.
3- Standard or Extended.
It is really a preference because you may want to use cards like Mona, Oscar and Nellie and deal occasionally with cards like Jackie Cr or have to face Caelus Cr and Spyke very often. Either can work if you have a good deck but extended is typically where the DT winner will play.
4- Banned Cards
I do NOT recommend using cards with a penalty of -10. They really won't help you win the DT because you are loosing too much valuable points. -5 penalty cards be cautious about because once again they might be the reason why you didn't win the DT. -2 cards, you can be a bit more lenient because in the old old DT, Jackie Cr (-2 Penalty) was definitely worth it but the winner rarely received more than 450 points so it is relative. If you can avoid using banned cards, do so.
5- Clans to Use
Standard: Take advantage of Spyke and Caelus Cr while they are still standard. Use them in a half deck with attack manip clans. I don't recommend using either in a full clan. Frozn/Vortex works nicely as well.
Extended: Montana Uppers Sentinel and All Stars are really the clans that you will face the most and the ones you should be using as they are currently very powerful in DTs.
6- Little Tips.
If you have a guaranteed loss, don't go for the win and hope to be lucky. Take the loss KO and move on. You will get more points that way. If it isn't a KO, try to win as many rounds as you can.
If you can get the + life and KO go for it. Otherwise go only for the KO.
2-3 KO work best to get a lot of points per game.
If you can't win try to tie.
Use cards to avoid DRs like Moses or Desmond.
Defeat: + life like Lola can work wonders to get the + life bonsu (superior to 13 life)
Note: I use Montana in the majority of my examples because they are the clan I use for DTs the most and with a good deck it is easy to achieve top 50.
edited by -Wicer- tuesday 31/07/2012, 05:21
@BlackBurst_IM: Would you mind posting the guide here (Just like the others)?
Thanks to those who are wanting to help. It's really great to see you guys be more proactive about our community. I will read through this and then contact you guys in private about the guides... SO please keep them coming
Introduction: DT stands for daily tournament, which happens 12 times a day. Firstly, if you have no idea whatsoever what a DT is, then go to the game rules and read up the rules. Even if you do know, go anyways and skim through it. Once you're done, continue reading.
Deckbuilding Guide: Firstly, you have to know that DT decks are meant to play fast and get high points. Now keep that in your back pocket.
There are two game modes to play a DT:
1. Extended: All cards go. This is the most popular place to play a DT.
2. Standard. If you don't know what Standard is, THEN GO AND FRICKEN READ THE RULES!!! Anyways, it is not usually recommeded to play a DT in standard UNLESS YOU HAVE A GOOD DECK (in all caps cuz i don't want anyone to miss it and go like 'oh that's not completely true'). This is because the cards you can play with are limited, therefore sometimes your deck will not be good enough. It doesn't matter if you are playing standard or extended, all players in both rooms at tournament time will play in the same DT (you will play the players in the room, but it is the same DT). Therefore most of the time Extended players have an advantage in where they can use any card. So, the only advantage of going standard is that your opponent will also have a standard deck, so unless you're using a great standard deck, I recommend extended.
You probably saw this in the DT rules, but this is the point system:
Win: 15 pts, Loss: 5 pts, Draw: 10 pts
Rounds Played: 1 = 1 pt, 2 = 2 pts, 3 = 4 pts, 4 = 8 pts
Rounds won: 1 = 2, 2 = 4 pts, 3 = 9 pts, 4 = 16 pts
Win with 1 pill remaining: 2 pts
Win with at least 12 life: 2 pts
Win with fewer stars in the deck: 1 pt per fewer star; 5 pts max.
KO bonus: 2 pts
Before I talk about the bonuses, I will say NEVER RISK YOUR VICTORY. I said this first so I don't have to keep repeating myself.
Rounds played: IMO it's better not to drag on the fight for 2-4 more points. This bonus is more for Class 1, where there aren't a lot of 2HKO's (I'll talk about that later). But, you can try, however if you want to drag on a fight, then there is a risk that the other person might stall.
Rounds won: Like I said, I think it's just better to quickly 2HKO, but if it comes to the situation where you can win all or 3 of the rounds, it could be free 5 pts. But, like I said before, stallers exist, so be careful.
Win with a pill left over: Pretty straight forward. Remember to do this, it could make a difference.
Win with atleast 12 life: I don't think you should aim to get this bonus. It's better to take a hit to garentee your victory than to risk a loss.
Win with a fewer *ed deck: This is the reason why people tend to use lower *ed decks (ex.16 or 18*s). If you feel unconfident, then then don't purposely use a low * deck, because this bonus doesn't work if you lose. Once you get good at DT's, then abuse this bonus, because it literally is the easiest bonus to get.
KO: Pretty straight forward. Fury if you have to. This will be hard in Class 1 (mentioned later), as the cards usually have low dmg, but it might still make a difference, so remember this bonus.
Now, again, NEVER RISK YOUR VICTORY. This applies with all of the above mentioned bonuses. Winning is priority, so remember this. One last thing; if you are going to lose, then I recommend you end it as quickly as possible if you can. I think getting into another match is more important than getting a few extra points.
Now, about the classes.
In DT, there are 3 classes. These are the range of deck sizes that you will be facing. What matters is the TOTAL STAR COUNT. Counting the amount of stars in your deck can tell you your class.
Class 1: 0-23*
Class 2: 24-31*
Class 3: 32* and above
Example: If a have a DT deck of 22*, then I will be in Class 1, and you will only face decks 23* and below.