40enFri, 10 May 2013 16:55:08 GMTFri, 10 May 2013 16:55:08 GMTBerzerk/Freaks your deck is Lola Cornelia and Boris Piotr your opp. has Gabrielle Lucia Miss Lulabee Eugene ... Lets say you just played Boris on the first round with 5 pillz and you won, you get 4 damage and poisioned your opp. Second round you sacrifice and save your pillz, your opp. plays and hits you for 8 damage with Fury he/she only has 4 pillz left, on the third round you play Cornelia with Fury, your opp. has 8 life left, after you win with Cornelia how much life does your opp. have left ????]]>Fri, 22 Feb 2013 02:54:48 GMT 1) Go small or go home. Don't pack your deck with 5 star characters. If you want points avoid 5 star cards all together .They score less points. A good guide to score lots of points is 25 total star points. Don't worry the administrators adjust opponents to this.
2) Get used to your deck so you know what it does quickly. Faster reactions mean more matches- more matches means more points. If you are going to lose lose quickly- so you can go on to the next match.
3) Never abandon a game you lose 20 points
4) With lower decks you often play lower players. This tends to speed things up as well.
5) This is a personal preference. I like to get cards that stop bonuses and stop abilities. Every card has a weakness. If you can stop it's strength do so. I also like cards that can lower damage (these are good if you're going to lose that round). Look for cards with hidden points +life/-life. Some players tend not to notice this.
6) Don;t fall in love with a card. Sometimes you may need to bluff with it. Plus good players will account for the card.
7) Watch for patterns- especially on the first play. If he loses with 1 pills he is less likely to lose with 2 pills in the future. If he plays 3 pills to start it is more likely he will try a 3 pill lead again.

Don't use fury at the beginning EVER.

Hope that helps]]>Sun, 03 Feb 2013 22:00:37 GMT
I'm not here to rant, I win alot, and coming in top 1/3 is a daily thing for me. Even beat a level 107 before. But most ofmy opponents, roughly 98% of them, do not follow ths rule. I have had people level 10-100 take literally 30-40 sec each selection. Its annoying beause most of my battles last like 6-8 mins. Its come to the point where i basically expect my opponent to take forever because it seems like hes too busy shopping on amazon to play. A level 100 today took forever throughout the match, then timed out at the end.

I know it sounds like im ranting, and i know some people follow the golden rule, but I only see it one time usually a tournament. Hell, most tournaments, im lucky to get 8 or 9 fights in the given hour..]]>Fri, 02 Nov 2012 08:22:05 GMT
Essential Tip]]>Sun, 30 Sep 2012 14:22:37 GMTSun, 30 Sep 2012 13:36:16 GMTSat, 29 Sep 2012 14:52:22 GMTSat, 11 Aug 2012 09:56:17 GMT when a battle starts at dt take a good look at all the cards(including the opponent's)..If you have a hard time winning more than two rounds then aim for a quick ko..]]>Sat, 11 Aug 2012 01:54:23 GMTPussycats can't be played in DT, because they play too slowly. In Class 2, it is better to drop the DRs and just get 2HKOers, and in Class 1, the dmg is already low because the *s are low.
Pill Manip and +life: Not as much as DR's but pill manips and +life can also slow down the game. Your opponent may go like 'Oh mah goodness, is he going for it, is he bluffing, or is he anti-anti-bluffing, or anti-anti-anti-anti-bluffing or is he...' and take forever to play. Don't use excessive amounts of these cards, but a little is okay."


BLASPHEMY!
Polly Met a Cat

though it may make sense to play fast 2ko decks over 4 turn decks, it should be noted that most people running in class 2 are usually going to be running some form of 2hko dependent deck so denying that can ruin their deck strategy

Also remember the age old DT mantra "Win fast, Lose faster", if you know you're going to lose a fight let a 2hko through asap or you will just be wasting time, same goes for stallers, most times its better to lose to 1 staller and win 2 more after him than just play 2 battles with the staller.]]>Fri, 10 Aug 2012 17:21:12 GMTTue, 07 Aug 2012 05:07:01 GMTelo banned cards that don't have any penalty to them, especially in playing 23* and under.
Avola, Leviatonn, X-ODUS, Askai, Troompah, Sylth, Uranus, and Robb are all ridiculously strong, and using them is a big advantage.]]>Wed, 01 Aug 2012 21:04:12 GMT
Turn off finishing moves. You want to have all the time you can get.]]>Wed, 01 Aug 2012 20:04:30 GMTBob Joby!!!'.
I hope this guide has helped you, and you have reliezed the meaning of life or something. Happy gaming!]]>Wed, 01 Aug 2012 20:03:28 GMT Clan Choice: Class 1: A clan that have good 2/3*. This is important: they all need to be able to win. Solid stats usually isn't enough. Keep that in mind.
Class 2: Good cards that can somewhat 2HKO. The best are clans that have bonuses that can help them win and have good 2HKO options (*cough*Uppers*cough*, *cough*Montana*cough*). Remember, this class is all about quick games.
Class 3: Any clan that isn't mono Freaks or Pussycats can do decent.
Like with all decks, look at your worst hands, best hands, decent hands, solidity, 2HKO's, counters, etc.
Remember, NEVER QUIT A GAME unless you want to quit the DT. Accept a loss and move on.
If you are going to lose, then remember to do so quickly, so you can move on and get another match.
It may also matter slighty which DT you're going to play in. There are more players in some hours than others, so if you want a little more chance to win, do in a less crowded DT, and if you want a challenge or a better reward, then go find a crowded DT.
Be completely focused, no multitasking, no distractions. I recommend not checking your results, and using the enter/space bar to get into another match.]]>Wed, 01 Aug 2012 20:02:54 GMT Other cards you should stay away from: DRs, Pill Manip, poison, heal, +life
DRs: They slow down the game. In DTs, you need to play FAST. DRs may help you win, but it's usually better not to use them as it stalls time. You MAYBE might use one, but that's it. This is the reason why Pussycats can't be played in DT, because they play too slowly. In Class 2, it is better to drop the DRs and just get 2HKOers, and in Class 1, the dmg is already low because the *s are low.
Pill Manip and +life: Not as much as DR's but pill manips and +life can also slow down the game. Your opponent may go like 'Oh mah goodness, is he going for it, is he bluffing, or is he anti-anti-bluffing, or anti-anti-anti-anti-bluffing or is he...' and take forever to play. Don't use excessive amounts of these cards, but a little is okay.
Heal and Poison: The problem with poison and heal: They take time to activate. In Class 2/3 where it's all 2HKO's, this is a problem. They also both somewhat take some time to think about, which will slow the game down. U might consider them in class 1, but in the other classes, it's not recommended.]]>Wed, 01 Aug 2012 20:00:10 GMT Class 2: Here, 2HKO decks rule. Usually, a good deck will have several 2HKO options. 24-26* are for the pts per less *s bonus, 29-31* are for the less confident players who want quick 2HKO games. There is more dmg than Class 1, but still pretty much about strategy.
Class 3: NOT RECOMMENDED. You can use a very fast KOing 32-34* deck, but it's no stategy, just brute force. Plus there are those mission-people, stray DM decks, and leaders. You can try, but generally the DT winner is usually from Class 1 and 2.]]>Wed, 01 Aug 2012 19:59:35 GMT KO: Pretty straight forward. Fury if you have to. This will be hard in Class 1 (mentioned later), as the cards usually have low dmg, but it might still make a difference, so remember this bonus.
Now, again, NEVER RISK YOUR VICTORY. This applies with all of the above mentioned bonuses. Winning is priority, so remember this. One last thing; if you are going to lose, then I recommend you end it as quickly as possible if you can. I think getting into another match is more important than getting a few extra points.
Now, about the classes.
In DT, there are 3 classes. These are the range of deck sizes that you will be facing. What matters is the TOTAL STAR COUNT. Counting the amount of stars in your deck can tell you your class.
Class 1: 0-23*
Class 2: 24-31*
Class 3: 32* and above
Example: If a have a DT deck of 22*, then I will be in Class 1, and you will only face decks 23* and below.]]>Wed, 01 Aug 2012 19:58:59 GMT Win: 15 pts, Loss: 5 pts, Draw: 10 pts
Rounds Played: 1 = 1 pt, 2 = 2 pts, 3 = 4 pts, 4 = 8 pts
Rounds won: 1 = 2, 2 = 4 pts, 3 = 9 pts, 4 = 16 pts
Win with 1 pill remaining: 2 pts
Win with at least 12 life: 2 pts
Win with fewer stars in the deck: 1 pt per fewer star; 5 pts max.
KO bonus: 2 pts
Before I talk about the bonuses, I will say NEVER RISK YOUR VICTORY. I said this first so I don't have to keep repeating myself.
Rounds played: IMO it's better not to drag on the fight for 2-4 more points. This bonus is more for Class 1, where there aren't a lot of 2HKO's (I'll talk about that later). But, you can try, however if you want to drag on a fight, then there is a risk that the other person might stall.
Rounds won: Like I said, I think it's just better to quickly 2HKO, but if it comes to the situation where you can win all or 3 of the rounds, it could be free 5 pts. But, like I said before, stallers exist, so be careful.
Win with a pill left over: Pretty straight forward. Remember to do this, it could make a difference.
Win with atleast 12 life: I don't think you should aim to get this bonus. It's better to take a hit to garentee your victory than to risk a loss.]]>Wed, 01 Aug 2012 19:58:14 GMT Deckbuilding Guide: Firstly, you have to know that DT decks are meant to play fast and get high points. Now keep that in your back pocket.
There are two game modes to play a DT:
1. Extended: All cards go. This is the most popular place to play a DT.
2. Standard. If you don't know what Standard is, THEN GO AND FRICKEN READ THE RULES!!! Anyways, it is not usually recommeded to play a DT in standard UNLESS YOU HAVE A GOOD DECK (in all caps cuz i don't want anyone to miss it and go like 'oh that's not completely true'). This is because the cards you can play with are limited, therefore sometimes your deck will not be good enough. It doesn't matter if you are playing standard or extended, all players in both rooms at tournament time will play in the same DT (you will play the players in the room, but it is the same DT). Therefore most of the time Extended players have an advantage in where they can use any card. So, the only advantage of going standard is that your opponent will also have a standard deck, so unless you're using a great standard deck, I recommend extended.]]>Tue, 31 Jul 2012 05:37:24 GMT
Thanks to those who are wanting to help. It's really great to see you guys be more proactive about our community. I will read through this and then contact you guys in private about the guides... SO please keep them coming ]]>